Fascinating Wine Regions:  Focus on ALSACE

Located in the NE Corner of France, it is one of the Northernmost wine-growing regions of Europe. Bordering with Germany along the Rhine River to the East, this beautiful region has been fought over for centuries. Variously a part of Germany and periodically returning to France, it has developed its own language and identity that extends to the varieties of grapes grown to the styles of wines it produces.

Currently a part of the Grand Est (Great East) Province of France, it maintains a degree of independence uncommon amongst French provinces. The Alsatian language (an old dialect of German with a lot of French words thrown in) is allowed to be taught in schools alongside French. Alsatians are very proud of their history and culture and please don’t confuse them with being German!

Geography:

The land lies on the Eastern slope of the Vosges Mountains and down to the plain of the Rhine River. This “in the Middle” location accounts for the many battles fought over her. Map Makers like “natural boundaries” to draw the lines between nations. The French always thought the line should be drawn along the Rhine .. While the Germans thought the Vosges Mountains seemed a nice natural border. This Cartographic misunderstanding explains a great deal about the history of Alsace.

Alsace is one of the coldest regions in France with an average daily high temperature of only 16 degrees centigrade (60℉). The climate is much more unsettled than in central Europe and offers varied seasons with deep winters and warm summers. It rarely gets really warm here and you can safely leave your swimwear at home.

The only geographic divisions are the Haut Rhin (upper Rhine closer to the Swiss source) and the Bas Rhin or lower reaches of the river.  I am not aware of any distinguishing characteristics of the wines, it seems to be just a geographical reference.

Types of Wine:

Most of the grape varieties grown are sourced from Germany — Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewurtztraminer, among others. And while the grapes used may be the same, the wines are clearly different.  German wines have traditionally been “sweet”, even dessert wines such as “late harvest” and “ice wine.”  Alsatian wine is DRY.  An Alsatian Riesling will be “fruity” but not insipantly sweet. Produced in a “French Style” but with grapes distinctively German, they represent a delightful twist towards more “modern” wine-making techniques.

In all there are some 14,000 hectares that produce 150 Million bottles of wine.  Almost all the wines are “white,” with Riesling, Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Muscat and Sylvaner. Only one red grape is grown (Pinot Noir) and most often used to produce Rosés.

Of course Alsace also produces other “styles” such as dessert wines and a wonderful sparkler called “Cremant d’Alsace,” made mostly from Riesling. It cannot be labeled “Champagne,” of course, but it can be very bubbly and quite delicious.  And, like “cremants” from other parts of France, they have been spared the high prices.

Alsatian wines are labelled by grape variety, not place names as in other parts of France.  Also there are few “blends,” and most bottles contain wine made from only one grape.

The Producers:

Unlike some other parts of France, Alsace does not have any “Grand Chateaux” with vast vineyards, large production, and famous names.  In fact, the bulk of Alsace wine is produced by small “Estates” (called “Domaine“) which average just 2-3 hectares. Many growers form cooperatives to spread the cost of equipment and such over a larger number of estates. Even the largest estates are family owned.

A small number of estate vineyards are designated as “Grand Cru.”  Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Muscat are the only varieties permitted in Grand Cru vineyards. The designations were done in 1973 and don’t always reflect the best grapes/wines produced now. Some major producers have dropped the Grand Cru label altogether and created their own unique rankings.

 

The Wine Route:

Most all of the wine estates are along one “highway” some kilometers inland parallel with the Rhine and at the foot of the Vosges Mountains.

 

 

Strung along the route like Christmas ornaments are the charming wine villages. Most have funny, German-sounding names with a main street running up the hill from the highway lined with “Half-Timbered Houses” and quaint shops.

Often the wineries themselves are scattered along the streets (and sometimes alleys) where a table with bottles outside announce what you can taste today. I am fond of the window displays where one can browse undisturbed and try to decipher the labels.

Establish a Base Station: I suggest Colmar:

Regardless which direction you approach from, follow the signs to Colmar. Alsace’s second city (after Strasbourg, which is one of the four “capital cities” of the European Union) with over 200,000 population, is the ideal jumping-off point for exploring the picturesque towns and villages of the wine-growing region. It has many quality hotels and dozens of good restaurants. Check in to your hotel and if there is still time, go to the Tourist Information Office and pick up brochures, maps and menus. Spend the rest of the evening in Colmar’s central square and pick one of the delightful eateries that feature the regional specialty Baeckoffe (three types of meat marinated in white wine with potatoes and sauerkraut) and top it off with the favorite Kougelhopf , a regional variation of Bunt cake.

The next day explore the town packed with fairytale architectural treasures — half-timbered buildings abound. Architectural landmarks reflect eight centuries of Germanic and French architecture and the adaptation of their respective stylistic language to the local customs and building materials ( pink and yellow Vosges sandstone, timber framing). Wander along the quaint canals that were once vital to the urban economy.

The most important museums are the Unterlinden Museum and Musee Bartholdi. The former houses the Isenheim Alterpiece, with panels that fold to reveal different images to sooth and restore the hospital patients and the latter is the home of Frederic Auguste Bartholdi, the sculpturer of the Statue of Liberty.

After a day of walking and sightseeing, devour another enormous meal and return to your hotel to rest for the Alsatian Wine Route tomorrow. Have comfortable walking shoes. Even though Colmar was OK for street shoes, the villages are all cobble stones and it you want to hike away from town a little, good shoes are a must.

Exploring

Each village along the Wine Route is more charming than the last (if that is possible). Villages actually compete on a cuteness scale of the number of fleur (flowers) awarded. As we can see Bennwhir earned three (3) flowers. I think three (3) is the max, but I’m not sure.

As noted before, the wine production is done by family-owned and operated “domaines” nestled between churches, shops and homes within the village.

Don’t be shy .. You won’t embarrass yourself – everyone else is a tourist here. And they all come for the same things: The View and The Wine.

This is what I do to start off — Stare intently at an outdoor display. Maybe someone will notice you and inquire as to your interests. When they invite you in for a taste, go for it!

[Notice the little cardboard “houses” in the window? They are wine carriers. Buy two or more bottles and they put them in an Alsatian house-box for you. They probably won’t survive the trip, but you can take a photo and amuse your friends back home.] After you’ve tasted a few wines, you’ll get “braver” and more relaxed to be more assertive the next time.

Don’t get greedy. Don’t rush to get more villages in during a single day. Stroll not only the main streets, but some of the back alleys too. You can’t get lost. When you run into a vineyard, you’ve gone too far (but check out the vines and and grapes if there are any that time of the year. Most villages also have a “ring road” around the backs of houses that will take you to one of the main streets again.

Find a place for lunch. If you aren’t feeling up to more meat, there should be a real grocery store on the “route” close to the main street entrance to the village. You can supplement your baguette and cheese with a bottle of wine – either one you purchased in the village or choose one of the amazingly cheap bottles of European wine from the grocery store. Get a corkscrew if you aren’t already carrying one. Plastic wine glasses are OK, but don’t drink out of a McDonalds paper cup. Have some pride. A park bench or the steps of a church are acceptable lunch spots.

This little church  is dedicated to St. Leo — Alsace’s only Pope. In Eguisheim.

If you have “seen the town” and not thrilled about exploring more, go on to the next on your itinerary. Don’t get too creative and stop in a “one-fleur town.” You’ll have wasted time and perhaps missed out on something good at your next stop. If there really was something fantastic you might discover, the town would have gotten more “fleurs.” There are many neat places beyond what we recommend here, but you are unlikely to discover on your own. If you have a guidebook that recommends a place, OK. But optional and worthwhile side trips will be found at the end of this chapter.

Individual Charms

Kayserberg

We will start by exploring three of the prettiest villages in Alsace, if not the world. From Colmar, follow the signs to Kaysersberg . This small village is just off the main “wine route” up the hill at the entrance of a Vosges Valley. It is built by the River Weiss, which flows between the houses. It is the proud birthplace of Albert Schweitzer. You are going to love Kaysersberg, with its beautiful historic center, its many half-timbered houses from the 15th and16th centuries, and a pink sandstone bridge built in 1514.

Kaysersberg means “the Emperor’s mountain” and the ruins of the imperial castle that dominates the city has an incredible charm. With a population of less than 3,000 people, they have been growing wine for over 400 years – and still being one of the main economic sources for this town. Kaysersberg is not to be missed by any wine lover (or photography lover or really anyone that loves quaint villages)! Due to its size and compactness, it is easily doable to see the town in half a day.

The first wine vines were brought to this region from Hungary in the 1600s. The region and town are especially known for their Pinot Gris variety, still one of the main wines produced. If you’re looking for a special wine experience, visit the Domaine Weinbach winery.

OPTIONAL TIP: Schedule a formal wine tasting at one of the local producers. This wine tasting experience will jump-start your knowledge and appreciation of the wines, but also some history and a glimpse at village life. Not only will you get a tour of their wine cellar and the old tasting room, but you will learn about the different types of Alsatian wine and what distinguishes wines as grand cru. They will also spend time with you and help you understand more about the region, the grape, and the process.

One of my personal favorite wine shops is that of Pierre Spar (shown below.) Friendly, English speaking and accommodating. The family also owns a small hotel right on the Wine Route just outside of Riquewhir. Inexpensive, clean and comfortable.

http://hotel-le-riquewihr.fr/

In 2017, Kaysersberg was named France’s favorite village, beating out 12 other finalists. It won due to its friendly locals, walkable streets, and adorable architecture (look at all the half-timbered houses!). To be honest, due to the German influence, it feels like a German village.

(I wonder if that fact influenced its French ranking – a quaint German village one can visit without actually having to go to Germany?)

Kaysersberg really is a romantic, fairy tale, magical village to start off your tour and prepare you for enjoyment of the others.

Riquewihr

Riquewihr feels like it is straight out of the Middle Ages with its ramparts and towers, and its unique once-upon-a-timeliness, Riquewihr is the living museum of old Alsace’s architecture. Mainstreet, ramparts, and winding back alleys have scarcely changed since the 16th century.

Merchants handle the influx of tourists with lots of kitschy souvenir shops. Skip them and instead wander into courtyards with massive winepresses, study the ornately decorated houses, stand in the narrow old courtyard that was once the Jewish quarter, or climb up the Dolder Belfry for a stunning view of the town.

Just strolling down the heavenly streets will reward your eye with half-timber houses, storybook gables, and window boxes. You would also do well to settle into a WINSTUB to sample some of Riquewihr’s famous wines. Not only is a WinStub (literally Wine Room) a great place to sample wines from several estates, and a great place for lunch. Usually inexpensive traditional fare, you can drink and eat in a friendly atmosphere. Like British Pubs, they are low-key, high-value establishments. Families and singles are warmly welcomed and free of any hassle. They are frequented by locals and tourists alike.

While numerous vintners labels will be available in a WinStub, these are must-try examples of the biggest producers in Alsace. Many producers make wine from different varieties of vines growing in the same plot of land. Typically, Riesling, Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Gris, and others. Try them all. Buy one or two for your picnic lunch.

Not to miss:

 

The Hugel tasting room is right in the heart of Riquewhir. http://www.hugel.com/

Trimbach is located in our next village, Ribeauville.. https://www.trimbach.fr/en/trimbach-estate/

Once you know more about the wines, you will become more comfortable ordering wine at restaurants and cafes. You won’t have a bad wine in Alsace. There are so many wine cellars that offer tastings. You can pop in anywhere. For the French, it is customary to buy a bottle or two after the free tasting, then keep moving to other wineries and purchase more down the road. It is a friendly gesture (especially by an American!) and you can’t go wrong.

Ribeauville

Ribeauville is one of the bigger towns in Alsace but it doesn’t feel like a city the same way Colmar does. Though they have preserved the historical feel, there is definitely a different feel between the newer part of the city and the older part of the city. If you’re looking for a city that will keep you entertained, it’s probably Ribeauville. There are plenty of shops and restaurants to explore throughout the town. Many of the cafes and bakeries have places to sit and watch the world go by.

Even on Sundays, there are plenty of people out and about. Many things are closed, but there was more open in Ribeauville than there was in Kayserberg. If you are traveling with children, this is probably a good place hang out for a while.

Ribeauville Co-Op Tasting Room

The vintners in the region frequently band together in coopertives, sharing capital resources, equipment, advertising … etc. One such cooperative is right on the main street. Like WinStubs you can taste the wine from several estates.

Castles

Not one but three (3) castle ruins loom above the village one the hill. Between the vineyards and the mountains, This is a charming town which has preserved its historical heritage. In the 14th century, powerful lords decided to build the village walls and the castle. For the athletic adventurers, leaving from Place de la République, you can discover the strongholds that overlook the town: Saint-Ulrich (11th-15th c.), Girsberg (13th c.) and Haut-Ribeaupierre (13th-15th c.) can all be seen in less than 3 hours.

Lots more villages ..

If you find yourself with extra time, there are plenty of places to explore. There are dozens of little villages, but not all have storybook old buildings. In fact the entire region was heavily bombed and blasted during WWII.

 

Some towns rebuilt exactly as they were  before, as much as possible, with some replacing government buildings outside the tourist areas with more modern structures. For example, this new city hall in Bennwhir.

While others, decided to start fresh with contemporary styles. This creates quite a contrast from one village to the next. I does seem that those places that were determined to be of high tourist value were rebuilt as before – as were those close to or on the Wine Route.

That doesn’t mean that the “new” villages aren’t worth looking at .. they may have memorials and churches which are quite interesting. AND, they are most likely to have useful tourist services – modern grocery stores, drug stores and post offices.

Above the rooftops in many villages, are the distinctive bird nests perched precarously on the most improbable spots. These are the Cigogne – White Storks. These nursery-rhyme birds were nearly extinct before a vigorous campaign to save the Storks — which if you look above almost any time of the year, you’ll see the big birds flying overhead and resting in their pole-top nests. If you are travelling in the Spring, little “storky heads” may pop up into view.

Haut-Konigsbourgh Castle

A short drive “up the hill” between Bergheim and Kintzheim off the wine road. In addition to a tour of a real castle, the view of the valley below is outstanding.

 

 

Northern villages. All of our stops have been on the southern stretch of the Wine Route. There are many more as you travel north through Dambach, Barr, Obernai, and Molsheim. All good spots to explore with Barr often cited by tour guides.

You’ll see a main highway leading to Strasbourgh — a great city of contrasts. Home to the European Parliament, to the best of both French and German cuisine, and hotels for every budget. Stunning modern architecture, half-timbered buildings, cathedral, music, museums … a great city without the fast pace and major stress of Paris or Munich. Be sure to see the Astonomical Clock and visit La Petite France neighborhood (take a canal ride – It’s not a Venice Gondola, but the little boats are fun.)

On the other side:

Remember Germany is just across the Rhine River. Just a few kilometers into Germany are places that I personally recommend – Baden Baden, and Freiburg. The former for hedonistic pleasures and the latter for Renaissance culture and the entrance to the Black Forest. I don’t know why the Baden is in the name twice, perhaps because the “Bad-ing” is exceptional. If you’ve never experienced a high-class European spa, here’s your chance. The day-rate is about $15 and for the price of admission you can soak in baths – hot, warm, cold (if you dare) and/or Saline (which leaves your skin amazingly soft. Like a warm ocean but without the sharks and sand in your pants.) There are steam baths, saunas of varying temperatures, whirlpools, New Age relaxation to soft lights and music .. Or just sit on the clever massaging jets or swim to your heart’s content. Hard to describe.

 

Freiburg, home to one of Europe’s early universities and vibrant today with young people and sophisticates (not necessarily the same folks.) Amazing shopping, colorful buildings, a fine concert hall and the city is proudly “an Eco City.” All in all worth the short trip.

 

 

I hope you have a wonderful time in Alsace – I always do. What’s not to like. Share your experience with other Blog followers!